EIGHT STEPS IN NEGOTIATING
After doing your homework (see Fact Sheet
#4), you will be prepared to visit various dealers to obtain
competitive and comparable quotes on the car you want. Obtaining
useful quotes will entail a certain amount of negotiating
and exposure to various sales gimmicks.
1) CALL THE SALESPERSON FOR AN
APPOINTMENT:
If you have visited the dealer before on a
fact-finding visit, it makes sense to go back to the person
who helped you at that time. Sales people work very hard,
sometime for little compensation. Other than being kind,
this is smart: you won't have to start over with another
salesperson and will know a little of this particular person's
sales techniques.
2) WHEN YOU
ARRIVE ASK TO GO DIRECTLY TO THE SALESPERSON'S OFFICE:
A dealership track system leads the customer
through a pre-determined process in an order designed to
maximise their opportunity to make a profit. By taking the
initiative, the customer can throw that system off balance
a little.
Without committing yourself, you might open
by saying something like, "Hi, I'm going to buy a car
today, and I've narrowed my choice to one here and one at
another dealership. So, I'd like to go to your office right
now and talk prices." By indicating that you are looking
at the same car elsewhere, you take away the "exclusive
product" pitch from the dealer you are visiting.
3) ASK TO HAVE YOUR PRESENT CAR
APPRAISED (IF APPLICABLE)
Why have your car appraised right now? Dealers
like to "set you in" on a new car before they
appraise your old car. They then mix the sale of the old
car together with the purchase of the new car. That's where
the mythical "allowance" figure comes into play.
The conversation usually goes something like
this:
"Well, what is the car worth?"
"Well, that depends on what you're trading
for."
That statement is not true. The true wholesale
value of a trade stays the same regardless of whether you're
trading for a Rolls Royce or a used Edsel.
Asking for the appraisal at this point will
give you an idea of whether the dealer is prepared to pay
a fair wholesale price. Also by agreeing on the trade before
you begin negotiating for the new car, you're simplifying
the transaction. Rather than mixing the sale of the trade
with the purchase of the new car, you are keeping these
two entirely separate transactions apart. Simplifying always
saves money.
What it the dealer refuses to have the car
appraised first? Just leave. There are many other dealers
who will be straightforward, if asked.
Because you may find the salesperson referring
to the trade in price as an "allowance", the following
step is required.
4) THE BUYER AND SALESPERSON REACH
A FIRM AGREEMENT ON THE TRADE'S PRICE BEFORE GOING ON TO
THE NEXT STEP:
Just what is an allowance figure as opposed
to the price for a trade-in? Let's say you are looking at
a new car that has a dealer mark-up of $2,000. You have
a trade that has a true worth of $3,000. If the salesperson
believes you are more focused on the trade-in price that
the other six profit centres (see Fact Sheet #3), he or
she might say, "We'll allow you $4,000", which
they know is higher than what other dealers will quote.
How do they do that? They simply lowered their potential
profit on the sale of the new car by $1,000 and added it
to the trade. It only means that there is now less give
in the discount you will receive on the new car price.
5) AFTER AGREEING ON THE WHOLESALE
VALUE OF YOUR TRADE, MAKE A FIRST OFFER ON THE NEW CAR.
Say something like this:
"Now that we've agreed how much you will
pay to buy my car, let's talk about what I'll pay to buy
your car." Again, you are reinforcing that these are
two separate, controllable and understandable transactions.
What should the offer be? That's up to you
to decide. Most dealers are going to say no to your first
offer. The salesperson, using a track system, will make
counteroffers. Expect them. Expect lots of confusing figures
to be bandied about. Expect the trade-in to be brought up
again, in which case, say: "The trade-in isn't part
of this discussion. We have already agreed on a price. I
am making you an offer on the new car only. Is it acceptable
or not? If not, I have another car down the road to look
at."
In bargaining, give ground in small amounts,
if you still have room to negotiate. If the dealer asks
for another $500, offer $50. If they ask for another $200,
offer $25.
If the dealer is not coming to an acceptable
figure, within your available cash, it's time to leave,
on a polite note.
Leaving always saves you money. Dealers are
under great pressure to sell right now because they are
afraid a customer will leave and buy from a competitor.
If they have your phone number, you may even expect a follow-up
phone call.
6) SIGNING THE BUYER'S ORDER:
At some point, often even on the first offer,
the salesperson will ask you to sign a "buyer's order",
or some other type of conditional sales agreement. Whatever
its form, a conditional sales agreement is a contract. Only
sign it you are agreeing to buy the car at that price. Never
give a deposit unless your offer is approved in writing.
7) THE DEALER AGREES TO A PRICE
AND SIGNS THE BUYER'S ORDER:
When this happens, the buyer then gives a
deposit---and a very modest one. There is no need to agree
to more than $25, regardless of how expensive the car may
be. Why? Any deposit makes the contract binding.
How will the salesperson react to an offer
of a small deposit? They will invariably say: "Oh,
our boss won't accept a deposit that small!"
What do you do? Get up to leave. The salesperson
will then probably accept the smaller deposit. If not, go
to another dealership.
8) FINANCING:
Whether or not you have a pre-approved credit
union or bank loan with affordable payments and clear information
about your interest costs, you may still find the dealer
trying to convert you to dealer financing, which is another
profit centre for them.
As noted in Fact Sheet #5, car dealers have
developed a number of methods of hiding the true interest
rate, or costs of borrowing, from the average consumer,
thereby making comparison shopping very difficult.
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